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#82 Spuntino

November 29, 2011

Spuntino's attention to hip vintage detail is admirable. Bet it took a lot of money to make it look this deliciously derelict.

I don’t want to be rude, but there is no way you’re cool enough to eat in Spuntino. Spuntino exists on Rupert Street, in an unreconstructed space that looked like a 1940s tenement to begin with, and has been enhanced to look even more like it now. Yup, it’s another vintage-themed dive, this one taking most of its cues from classic (albeit painstakingly down-at-heel) Americana, right down to the menu which proudly offers sliders, mac and cheese and the like. It also boasts the thinnest staff in London; seriously, they’re barely able to lift the plates.

It’s a tiny place too, and most of the seating is around the bar, lending Spuntino the air of a drop-in, casual kind of destination (you can’t book). But since it’s new and exciting, what you’ll actually end up mostly doing is standing awkwardly behind the bar, waiting for a slot to become available. The food was excellent, by the way – juicy little patties of pulled pork or ground beef and bone marrow, with obscenely long and whiskery shoestring fries. But it’s hard to want to linger when London’s finest are literally breathing down your neck. Try going at unusual times, or you may spend more time queuing in the cold than slurping down tiny burgers.

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