#87 Cox Cookies and Cake
Do you see what he did there? Patrick Cox, renowned shoe designer, opened this cheeky little cupcake boutique last year. It’s on Brewer Street, practically opposite the site of the old Raymond Revue Bar, surrounded by the sad remnants of Soho’s sex shops, and it’s next to a sex shop. The theme, in case you hadn’t guessed, is ‘sex shop’.
The sleazy signage outside means you could easily mistake this for another smut-shack, even if the shiny black interior is much classier. (We presume! Ahahaha.) The neon sign on the wall isn’t any old rubbish, either – it’s art by Tracy Emin. Sketches in icing of her signature open-legged figures are stuck into some of the cupcakes. Others have nipples, or little sugar cocks stuck in them. Because cupcakes are just inescapably, inherently camp and ludicrous, this all seems to make perfect sense.
You might remember that we visited Icecreamists about one million entries ago, and thought that it was officially Trying Too Hard, with its cheap co-opting of fetish tropes to sell frozen desserts. Cox Cookies and Cake, on the other hand, is trying just hard enough, and gets its mix of campy, arty nonsense just right. It seems somehow more at ease with itself, as if it’s having a hearty laugh rather than trying to be sexy.
So we weren’t that surprised to find, when we actually tried the chocolate cupcake, that the frosting extended down, down, much further that your average cupcake, to a tiny portion of moist chocolate sponge that seemed to be smaller than a golf ball. The cake was literally about 90% frosting. Now that’s sexy.