More american unhealthiness! For years, Bodeans was the only place in central London you could find gen-yoo-ine-down-home American barbecue food. The situation’s a bit better now, but to avoid weak imitations, it’s best to visit Bodeans anyway to understand what all the hoo-hah is about. The always-busy Soho restaurant in Poland Street is the place to be, but there are also branches in Clapham, Fulham and Tower Hill.
Unlike the fakey feel of TGI-Friday style themed restaurants, Bodeans manages to feel actually American, simply by being owned, upholstered and staffed by real-life yanks. Pulled pork is one of their specialities – pork that’s been slow-cooked until it’s meltingly tender, then teased apart into mouthwatering strands. Try the beef ribs. If they sound a bit underwhelming, think of the difference in size between a pig and a cow. Yeah. They’re Flintstones big. The crispy french fries are just the right shade of fluorescent yellow, the barbecue sauce is a dark, tangy, sugary delight, and the slaw is gratifyingly crunchy. Are you salivating yet? Bodeans definitely remains the undisputed, check-shirted king of chargrilled meats.