#112 Hummingbird Bakery
This is more like it! No fannying around with low-fat this, or fruit that. The Hummingbird Bakery is one of the original cupcake emporia that are busy getting copied all over the place. There’s nothing complicated or fancy about these cupcakes and brownies; they’re made the American way. The American way appears to involve making sure each cake contains your weeks’ supply of calories, and then removing any disgusting vitamins that might be lying about. These cupcakes are so American, they might as well be drinking root beer and supporting water-boarding.
This Soho branch of the Hummingbird Bakery had a cosmopolitan, saucy vibe which was sadly punctured by the holier-than-thou snobbishness of the Saturday staff, who didn’t seem to be having much fun and were determined that nobody else should either. But even their iciness couldn’t ruin the thrill of nom-nom-nomming on super-inflated individual desserts. My chocolate whoopie pie was doughy and delicious, and weighed about six kilos. Mrs Brown’s raspberry cheesecake brownie was genuinely obscene, with neutron-star density and epic sugar levels. There are also branches of the Hummingbird Bakery in South Kensington, Notting Hill, and Spitalfields, by the way. Bring on the sugar. BRING IT ON.